Under the Weather 

March was going to be the perfect month in Spain. Temperatures were going up, I had friends to see in Madrid, and my sister was coming to visit me in Seville—all within a couple of weeks. 

Then, of course, it rained. 

I thought the sporadic spells were over by the end of orientation week. After all, any time I pictured southern Spain, it was the hot, dry Mediterranean sunshine that came to mind. But these indecisive storms, with dark clouds over the palm trees, reminded me more of Miami during hurricane season than the Seville I had in mind. 

Living in the Centro neighborhood, the things I’ve grown to love most are the outdoor lunch spots and cafés and the long, winding walks past beautiful historic buildings. The weather left me wondering what was left to enjoy while I waited out the storm. 

My sister being in town gave me the chance to play local tour guide. 

No Spending Necessary 

Living close to so many famous sites is great, but if I have to pay more than a couple of euros to see them, I’m rarely in the mood. But while I walked around, umbrella in hand, I was lucky enough to find that some places open their doors for free on occasion. 

One of these places was the Archivo de Indias. Just one tram station away, this museum is full of New World documents. It’s a nice, quiet place to nerd out about history without touristy crowds. 

The top floor of the Archivo de Indias. 

Its shelves are mainly stocked with texts for students and researchers, but there were cases on display with artifacts, maps, and letters that have been preserved for over 500 years. There are even a handful of paintings by Francisco de Goya and some beautiful sculptures. The windows on the second floor gave me a great view of the Alcázar—Seville’s old royal palace—even on a cloudy day. 

Another day, my roommate and I wandered around town and found ourselves at the University of Seville’s Fine Arts campus. We went, hoping to check out the library. When we got there, we saw there was an exhibit by the artist Carmen Gutiérrez Jordano called Animales en compañía that we were able to walk right into. 

Contemporary art at the University of Seville—can you spot the faces? 

As a bonus, the church next door was open. In general, I haven’t seen a single church in Seville that didn’t impress me. It was a great place to sit down for a moment and admire paintings, statues, wood carvings, and gold—lots of gold. 

One of my favorite things about Seville is the amount of art that’s accessible to everyone. The university isn’t the only place to see art for free. The Andalusian Center for Contemporary Art, across the river from my homestay, is another great way to spend an afternoon and always has something new. The museum is situated in an old monastery and ceramic factory, surrounded by a bright green orchard, making it worth the trip. 

Good Eats 

My sister met me after my CEA CAPA class during a brief bout of sunlight. It was the perfect time to show her the Santa Cruz neighborhood, with its narrow, cobbled streets and charming little restaurants. We decided to grab lunch at Casa Tomate, where the ham croquetas totally won her over. 

Even though the restaurant is in a strip of tourist-friendly tapas bars with a direct view of the iconic cathedral, the prices aren’t too steep. Like most casual restaurants in Seville, the food was more affordable than what you might find in the U.S. Three plates and two sangrias between the two of us came out to only about €25. 

The next morning, after she checked out of her hotel, I decided to show her one of my favorite local gems. We had breakfast at La Gata en Bicicleta, a café in the Alfalfa area known for its eclectic art. The walls are decorated with quirky ceramic sculptures, drawings, and paintings—all for sale. 

La Gata en Bicicleta, one of my favorite “chill” spots. 

While we were there, somebody was filming a TV program about Seville’s best attractions. Seeing a man with a professional video camera upon walking in was strange, but it definitely reaffirmed that I had picked a café worth seeing. We were even asked to be in a shot while we admired some sculptures by our table. 

Taking It Easy 

It’s been an unusual spring in Seville, with more rain than usual. While I love getting outside and walking every day, these weeks forced me to appreciate what the indoors has to offer. 

At first, I wasn’t sure what to share on this blog. I would have loved to show off how beautiful my neighborhood is but couldn’t find those picture-perfect moments. Then I realized there’s bound to be another student like me, stuck in drowsy weather, looking for ways to partake in Seville’s local culture regardless. 

If there’s anything I wish I’d known, it’s that “experiencing the city” can take the form of a lot of mundane things. Sitting down for lunch between classes, walking through a library, and talking to the waitresses at the local café were a few small ways I got to enjoy Seville. By taking it easy and making sure to appreciate these small things, I’ve been able to stay sane no matter what the weather looks like.